Diet, Housing and Bedding
Diet
What I feed my rats.
My rats get fed a grain mix that I make (pictured to the left) and a dog kibble with spiral pasta and split peas (pictured below)
Grain mixture consists of :
Crimped Oats, Crimped Barley, Flax seed, Steamed crimped corn (25%) and a protein pellet.
My rats get fed a grain mix that I make (pictured to the left) and a dog kibble with spiral pasta and split peas (pictured below)
Grain mixture consists of :
Crimped Oats, Crimped Barley, Flax seed, Steamed crimped corn (25%) and a protein pellet.
The dog kibble mixture
Dog kibble, (always a natural/holistic kibble and nothing over 20% protein) I am currently using 4health. Mixed with green split peas, unsweetened cereal, oat meal and the spiral pasta. With these two mixes, I alternate the feeding. They also do not get any more food until their bowls are empty. I do give them lots of dinner left overs as well as fresh greens grown here. I have chickens so they get organic eggs, shell and all (hard boiled) I have mint growing they they get as well. Makes the room and them smell minty :)
Here is the recipe:
(makes roughly 20#)
1# Cheerio's (or some sugar free cereal)
6# Elbow Macaroni, multi grain or veggie twisty pasta
12 cups, Dog Kibble 18% protein (grain free: no processed corn from out of the country, wheat, soy)
6 cups Dried Split peas
20 cups Sweet Feed
6 cups Rolled Oats
Here is the recipe:
(makes roughly 20#)
1# Cheerio's (or some sugar free cereal)
6# Elbow Macaroni, multi grain or veggie twisty pasta
12 cups, Dog Kibble 18% protein (grain free: no processed corn from out of the country, wheat, soy)
6 cups Dried Split peas
20 cups Sweet Feed
6 cups Rolled Oats
Rat diet
What do I feed my rat?? That is a big question, here is some very helpful information.
Information provided by Debby "The Rat Lady"
http://ratfanclub.org/index.html
Like most animals, rats can make all the vitamin C they need inside their body. Guinea pigs and primates are the only mammals that must get their vitamin C from food. But extra vitamin C might be good for rats. It’s a myth that rats must eat hard foods to keep their teeth from overgrowing. Healthy rats grind their teeth together to keep them the proper length and sharpness.
Rats have a flap in their stomach that covers the esophagus and prevents both vomiting and burping. For this reason, wild rats are very hesitant to try a new food in case it's poisonous. They nibble a little bit and wait; if they feel sick they associate it with the taste of the last new food they tried and avoid it in the future. This behavior is very adaptive for an animal that will try to eat almost anything, but who can’t vomit up bad food. Domestic rats aren’t quite as wary of new foods and soon learn to try any foods you offer them.
Rats, like people, are opportunistic carnivores which means they eat both plants and animals. Wild rats eat nuts, seeds, grains, vegetables, fruits, insects, worms, eggs, dead animals, and even frogs, fish, reptiles, birds and mammals that they catch and kill. This means they are partially predatory and have a high requirement for some nutrients that are most abundant from animal sources. This predatory nature is why rats are so smart! Rats do not need a salt lick. They get all the salt they need from their diet. Salt licks are only needed by strict herbivores.
The generic “rodent mixes” containing grains and seeds sold in bulk in pet shops do not even come close to providing all the nutrition rats need. Packaged mixes which are fortified with vitamins and minerals are better, but often rats will only eat their favorite pieces, and leave the rest.
Lab blocks, I'm not fond of them, the Kaytee and Harlin tech are full of soy and corn. I would go with Oxbow's Regal rat (has soy in it), it's more like a kibble then a block, BUT some rats don't like it. I only feed it to my mice, because I'm pleased with the mix I put together.
Forbidden Foods
Generally, if you would eat a food, you can give it to your rats. Here are some exceptions and notables:
Raw dry beans or peanuts—contains anti-nutrients that destroy vitamin A and enzymes needed to digest protein and starches, and causes red blood cells to clump
Raw sweet potato—contains compounds that form cyanide in the stomach
Green bananas—inhibits starch-digesting enzymes
Green potato skin and eyes—contain solanine, a toxin
Wild insects—can carry internal parasites and diseases
Raw bulk tofu—can contain bacteria; packaged raw tofu is safe
Orange juice—forbidden for male rats only, d-limonene in the skin oil, which gets into the orange juice during squeezing, can cause kidney damage and kidney cancer due to a protein that only male rats have in their kidneys. Pieces of the orange fruit are okay if you wash the orange-skin oil off of it after peeling it.
Foods to Feed with Caution
Carbonated beverages—rats can’t burp (but they can fart!)
Dried corn can contain high levels of fungal contaminates which has been shown to cause liver cancer in rats. Corn also contains high levels of both nitrates and amines. These two compounds can combine in the stomach to form nitrosamines which are carcinogenic. Other foods high in nitrates include beets, celery, eggplant, lettuce, cucumber, radishes, spinach, collards and turnip greens. Therefore, I suggest you limit the amount of these foods in your rat’s diet. Some fresh corn is fine, but if you feed your rats blocks, try to avoid brands which have corn as the first ingredient.
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BEDDING
In my 20ish yrs of rat ownership, I have tried many different bedding options. And in the past 2 yrs I have been VERY pleased with the pellets I have been using. (Pictured) the pine pellets are processed to where the oils are not an issue. The pine pellets when urinated on absorb it and the pellet crumbles. Leaving no wet bedding for just sit on the pan, leaving VERY little odor.The Alfalfa pellets are there to help with more odor control. They do not break down like the pine pellets do. They just help with odor...at least in my opinion. I wish I had thought about this when I had more rats and more cages. But I have been pleased with it. The rats do not chew on the pellets. There is a "barn" type smell to the pellets but I prefer that over the rodent smell. The cages are cleaned once a week as they were when I had more rats, but it is so easy to clean and bush out. I can even vacuum it up. So here is a list of bedding and my opinion on them. Some I have used, others I have not. These are just MY opinions. To each his or her own. But just go over them if you are new to rats and it'll help give you an idea of what to get. How I mix this is two pine to one alfalfa.
Carefresh:
Cons-Dusty, very poor odor absorption and prone to harboring mites. WAY over priced. (always freeze 24-48 prior to use) I don't use this bedding. GETS EVERYWHERE
Pros- Soft and pretty colors (the rats don't care what color the bedding is)
Aspen:
Cons- Can be dusty, and also could have mites (freeze before use) can be pricey, depending on where you get it. GETS EVERYWHERE
Pros- Good odor absorption, soft and good nesting material. Best wood shaving bedding in my opinion. BUT I prefer the reptile shavings over the chips. Less dust and softer.
Corn Cob:
Cons- I feel it's not good for their feet. Imagine walking barefoot on dried broken up corn cobs, To me it would seem very uncomfortable. Meh on odor absorption. GETS EVERYWHERE
Pros- Fairly inexpensive, and if used in a tray where the urine and feces fall through it would work well, if cleaned bi-weekly
Eco-bedding:
Cons-OVER priced for shredded/crinkled paper, Poor odor absorption. GETS EVERYWHERE
Pros- Comes in lots of pretty colors (rats don't care) can make good nesting material for the expecting doe. Soft and rats like to carry it around.
Clay Cat litter:
Cons- Dusty and has harsh chemical additives. Never used the clumping, not even for my cats. Too much of a Foreign Body risk, if the rats lick their feet and the litter is stuck to it. GETS EVERYWHERE
Pros- Fairly inexpensive (depends on the brand), decent odor absorption. Good IF ONLY used in a drop pan.
Cedar:
DO NOT USE IT... ENOUGH SAID (the oils are TOXIC)
Pine Shavings:
Cons-Much to popular belief, pine shavings are NOT toxic. The oils won't kill, BUT what they will do is cause discoloration on white and Hair Less rats. They are make kiln dried pine shavings so the oils aren't an issue. Pine gets EVERYWHERE, it is MEH on odor control. Very dusty and can harbor mites (always freeze before use)
Pros-Cheap and soft, good for nests (but remember it's dusty) It's not my favorite bedding but I won't shame someone for using it. Before I found that Aspen was much better, I used pine for yrs (this was almost 20 yrs ago) and I never lost a rat due to issues caused by the bedding.
Alfalfa Pellets (Horse feed):
Cons-Can be a bit pricey $12.99 at TSC for 50# bag. Has a barn type smell
Pros- Good odor control and barn type smell :) easy clean up.
Pine Pellets (Horse stall bedding)
Cons-Ummm I honestly can't think of any at the moment other than the bag is heavy and gives a barn type smell. Cost is $5.99 for a 40# bag. So depending on how you feel about that is whether it's expensive or not.
Pros-Great odor control, easy clean up, awesome barn type smell. a little goes a long way.
Fleece:
Cons- Expensive and poor odor control, the rats like to chew it. Have to wash or replace frequently.
Pros- It's pretty and soft...
In my 20ish yrs of rat ownership, I have tried many different bedding options. And in the past 2 yrs I have been VERY pleased with the pellets I have been using. (Pictured) the pine pellets are processed to where the oils are not an issue. The pine pellets when urinated on absorb it and the pellet crumbles. Leaving no wet bedding for just sit on the pan, leaving VERY little odor.The Alfalfa pellets are there to help with more odor control. They do not break down like the pine pellets do. They just help with odor...at least in my opinion. I wish I had thought about this when I had more rats and more cages. But I have been pleased with it. The rats do not chew on the pellets. There is a "barn" type smell to the pellets but I prefer that over the rodent smell. The cages are cleaned once a week as they were when I had more rats, but it is so easy to clean and bush out. I can even vacuum it up. So here is a list of bedding and my opinion on them. Some I have used, others I have not. These are just MY opinions. To each his or her own. But just go over them if you are new to rats and it'll help give you an idea of what to get. How I mix this is two pine to one alfalfa.
Carefresh:
Cons-Dusty, very poor odor absorption and prone to harboring mites. WAY over priced. (always freeze 24-48 prior to use) I don't use this bedding. GETS EVERYWHERE
Pros- Soft and pretty colors (the rats don't care what color the bedding is)
Aspen:
Cons- Can be dusty, and also could have mites (freeze before use) can be pricey, depending on where you get it. GETS EVERYWHERE
Pros- Good odor absorption, soft and good nesting material. Best wood shaving bedding in my opinion. BUT I prefer the reptile shavings over the chips. Less dust and softer.
Corn Cob:
Cons- I feel it's not good for their feet. Imagine walking barefoot on dried broken up corn cobs, To me it would seem very uncomfortable. Meh on odor absorption. GETS EVERYWHERE
Pros- Fairly inexpensive, and if used in a tray where the urine and feces fall through it would work well, if cleaned bi-weekly
Eco-bedding:
Cons-OVER priced for shredded/crinkled paper, Poor odor absorption. GETS EVERYWHERE
Pros- Comes in lots of pretty colors (rats don't care) can make good nesting material for the expecting doe. Soft and rats like to carry it around.
Clay Cat litter:
Cons- Dusty and has harsh chemical additives. Never used the clumping, not even for my cats. Too much of a Foreign Body risk, if the rats lick their feet and the litter is stuck to it. GETS EVERYWHERE
Pros- Fairly inexpensive (depends on the brand), decent odor absorption. Good IF ONLY used in a drop pan.
Cedar:
DO NOT USE IT... ENOUGH SAID (the oils are TOXIC)
Pine Shavings:
Cons-Much to popular belief, pine shavings are NOT toxic. The oils won't kill, BUT what they will do is cause discoloration on white and Hair Less rats. They are make kiln dried pine shavings so the oils aren't an issue. Pine gets EVERYWHERE, it is MEH on odor control. Very dusty and can harbor mites (always freeze before use)
Pros-Cheap and soft, good for nests (but remember it's dusty) It's not my favorite bedding but I won't shame someone for using it. Before I found that Aspen was much better, I used pine for yrs (this was almost 20 yrs ago) and I never lost a rat due to issues caused by the bedding.
Alfalfa Pellets (Horse feed):
Cons-Can be a bit pricey $12.99 at TSC for 50# bag. Has a barn type smell
Pros- Good odor control and barn type smell :) easy clean up.
Pine Pellets (Horse stall bedding)
Cons-Ummm I honestly can't think of any at the moment other than the bag is heavy and gives a barn type smell. Cost is $5.99 for a 40# bag. So depending on how you feel about that is whether it's expensive or not.
Pros-Great odor control, easy clean up, awesome barn type smell. a little goes a long way.
Fleece:
Cons- Expensive and poor odor control, the rats like to chew it. Have to wash or replace frequently.
Pros- It's pretty and soft...
Housing
The recommend spacing for rats is 2 square feet PER rat, when looking at getting a cage. Fish tanks don't provide enough air movement, they are heavy and hard to maneuver.
1 by 1/2 inch. Powder coating is preferable, but PVC coated is good too. I use Martin cages and I also have a Critter Nation. I also make tote cages, super easy to make. There are a few links to good rattie cages.
How much light do my rats need?
Rats are crepuscular creatures, not nocturnal. However they are more active at night than during the day. I keep my rats in my home, so the light they get during the day is what comes through the windows. I don't artificially light their room. Then at night, I don't add light. It's dark in the room like it is outside. If you have any further questions on this please feel free to email me.
http://www.martinscages.com/products/cages/rat/
http://www.ferret.com/item/ferret-nation-habitat-model-142/630503/
(good for large males, they have a critter nation with smaller bar spacing)
If you'd like to see how my rats are housed, please check out the page "Inside the Rattery"
1 by 1/2 inch. Powder coating is preferable, but PVC coated is good too. I use Martin cages and I also have a Critter Nation. I also make tote cages, super easy to make. There are a few links to good rattie cages.
How much light do my rats need?
Rats are crepuscular creatures, not nocturnal. However they are more active at night than during the day. I keep my rats in my home, so the light they get during the day is what comes through the windows. I don't artificially light their room. Then at night, I don't add light. It's dark in the room like it is outside. If you have any further questions on this please feel free to email me.
http://www.martinscages.com/products/cages/rat/
http://www.ferret.com/item/ferret-nation-habitat-model-142/630503/
(good for large males, they have a critter nation with smaller bar spacing)
If you'd like to see how my rats are housed, please check out the page "Inside the Rattery"