WHAT TO DO WITH A PREGNANT DOE
This page is to help those that end up with a pregnant doe and they weren't expecting it OR first time owners with a pregnant doe and unsure of what to do or how to house them.
Okay first off hopefully if you are a new or even experienced rattie owner you won't have to deal with an unexpected litter if you didn't plan for it. But sometimes things happen, whether the doe came to you pregnant or your rats were not sexed correctly at the place you got them and then "OH NO I have a male and female, and now possible babies on the way" and now don't know what to do or how to handle mom and babies. Or if you even had an "oops" where one of your bucks or does, went on an adventure for a romantic evening. This page is here to help answer those questions and not to pass judgement. You can email me at [email protected] and I can help answer questions you have any. I am not going to judge you, I want to help out and make this experience as stress free and fun as possible.
HOUSING FOR THE PREGNANT DOE
I have provided some photos of pregnant does and some of the maturity cages I have used.
Tote cages are the cheapest and easiest cages to make quickly. All you need is a rubber made tote, 1/2in x 1/2in hard wire clothe (can be found at any farm supply store, or I've seen it at Wal-Mart) rivets or metal wire to secure the wire to the tote. A drill for making holes to secure the wire to the tote. An sharp blade to cut the holes in the tote, I do three sides, leaving about 2 inches off the floor and top of the cage. I like to use rivets as it gives it a cleaner look. Plastic zip ties work too, but can be chewed off. Martins cages have a great selection of different size cages as well. I like the tote cages and Martins cages because it allows for nice air circulation.
I DO NO recommend using a fish tank. There is little to NO air movement and it can increase the risk of respiratory issues, BUT if it's the only thing you have to use on short notice, it's better than nothing. But should be just temporary, until another cage is made or bought. Wire cages are just fine to use, but you want to make sure the bar spacing isn't too far apart, 1"x 1/2" is best or 1/2"x1/2" works just as well. Basically you don't want the rittens to be able to get out once they start to become mobile at about 2.5 weeks old.
I like to use shredding news paper. The does will make a great nest out of it. I will shred it in strips and the does will do the rest. I use a soft shredded Aspen for the bed part of their nest, even though they always move it out of the way. (it makes me feel better lol)
I like to provide an igloo for mom to deliver in. I personally feel it makes her feel safe and helps keep babies warm too.
I will separate all does that are pregnant into their own maternity cages. If the doe is housed with non pregnant cage mates, give her her own cage for the delivery and rearing of the rittens. I wouldn't recommend allowing two pregnant does to be in the same cage to deliver as momma's will steal each others babies, and momma's can be very protective and bite the other doe(s)
If you have questions about bedding, I have my opinions on bedding on my diets and housing page. Or you can email me and ask questions.
I have provided some photos of pregnant does and some of the maturity cages I have used.
Tote cages are the cheapest and easiest cages to make quickly. All you need is a rubber made tote, 1/2in x 1/2in hard wire clothe (can be found at any farm supply store, or I've seen it at Wal-Mart) rivets or metal wire to secure the wire to the tote. A drill for making holes to secure the wire to the tote. An sharp blade to cut the holes in the tote, I do three sides, leaving about 2 inches off the floor and top of the cage. I like to use rivets as it gives it a cleaner look. Plastic zip ties work too, but can be chewed off. Martins cages have a great selection of different size cages as well. I like the tote cages and Martins cages because it allows for nice air circulation.
I DO NO recommend using a fish tank. There is little to NO air movement and it can increase the risk of respiratory issues, BUT if it's the only thing you have to use on short notice, it's better than nothing. But should be just temporary, until another cage is made or bought. Wire cages are just fine to use, but you want to make sure the bar spacing isn't too far apart, 1"x 1/2" is best or 1/2"x1/2" works just as well. Basically you don't want the rittens to be able to get out once they start to become mobile at about 2.5 weeks old.
I like to use shredding news paper. The does will make a great nest out of it. I will shred it in strips and the does will do the rest. I use a soft shredded Aspen for the bed part of their nest, even though they always move it out of the way. (it makes me feel better lol)
I like to provide an igloo for mom to deliver in. I personally feel it makes her feel safe and helps keep babies warm too.
I will separate all does that are pregnant into their own maternity cages. If the doe is housed with non pregnant cage mates, give her her own cage for the delivery and rearing of the rittens. I wouldn't recommend allowing two pregnant does to be in the same cage to deliver as momma's will steal each others babies, and momma's can be very protective and bite the other doe(s)
If you have questions about bedding, I have my opinions on bedding on my diets and housing page. Or you can email me and ask questions.
The Basics.
Sexual Maturity can starts as early as 5 weeks. YES females can get pregnant at 5 weeks old.
Brothers will breed with sisters.
Fathers will breed with daughters.
Mothers will breed with sons.
and so on.
How do you tell if babies are nursing? Look for milk bands (pictured above)
Gestation is on average 21-23 days.
Weaning should be at 5-6 weeks of age.
Sex separate when rittens are 5 weeks old.
(How to sex your rittens? I also have a page for that)
Does stay with momma and bucks get their own cage.
When can you start to handled the babies? Well I handle them from day ONE. Once I know mom is done and rested, at this time I will check her out to make sure she is recovering well. I will take her out and give her some free time, while go and check out the babies. I will handle each one and sex them at that time.
Some does of poor breeding will give you a VERY nasty bite, protecting her nest. So BE CAREFUL if you don't know momma's breeding and back ground as maternal aggression is very common among poorly bred rats.
Average litter size can vary on the age and breeding of the doe. I've had up to 19 born in ONE litter. And as little as 4 in one litter for a standard sized doe. They can have up to 21 maybe a few more.
Sexual Maturity can starts as early as 5 weeks. YES females can get pregnant at 5 weeks old.
Brothers will breed with sisters.
Fathers will breed with daughters.
Mothers will breed with sons.
and so on.
How do you tell if babies are nursing? Look for milk bands (pictured above)
Gestation is on average 21-23 days.
Weaning should be at 5-6 weeks of age.
Sex separate when rittens are 5 weeks old.
(How to sex your rittens? I also have a page for that)
Does stay with momma and bucks get their own cage.
When can you start to handled the babies? Well I handle them from day ONE. Once I know mom is done and rested, at this time I will check her out to make sure she is recovering well. I will take her out and give her some free time, while go and check out the babies. I will handle each one and sex them at that time.
Some does of poor breeding will give you a VERY nasty bite, protecting her nest. So BE CAREFUL if you don't know momma's breeding and back ground as maternal aggression is very common among poorly bred rats.
Average litter size can vary on the age and breeding of the doe. I've had up to 19 born in ONE litter. And as little as 4 in one litter for a standard sized doe. They can have up to 21 maybe a few more.
WHAT SHOULD I FEED MY PREGNANT DOE?
If you look on my Diets and housing page, it goes over what I feed my rats and the do's and don't's on what to feed. BUT pregnant and nursing does need a bit EXTRA protein and calcium in their diet. So I give hard boiled eggs, some extra veggies and even chicken and steak. All in moderation of course. But I feel it helps momma and babies out. I also leave food in there at all times. I let momma get away with possible food waist as I want her to have as much as she needs. Unlike the other rats that get fed about every other day, and I make sure no food is stashed.
If you look on my Diets and housing page, it goes over what I feed my rats and the do's and don't's on what to feed. BUT pregnant and nursing does need a bit EXTRA protein and calcium in their diet. So I give hard boiled eggs, some extra veggies and even chicken and steak. All in moderation of course. But I feel it helps momma and babies out. I also leave food in there at all times. I let momma get away with possible food waist as I want her to have as much as she needs. Unlike the other rats that get fed about every other day, and I make sure no food is stashed.
WHEN CAN THE BABIES GO TO THEIR NEW HOMES?
I will let my babies go about 6-8 weeks old. Once they are no longer nursing and eating on their own. Usually at about 5 weeks, they are sex separated and for the next few weeks. I make sure all is well and once I'm good with their eating habits and peeing and pooping. I let them go to their new owners.
I will let my babies go about 6-8 weeks old. Once they are no longer nursing and eating on their own. Usually at about 5 weeks, they are sex separated and for the next few weeks. I make sure all is well and once I'm good with their eating habits and peeing and pooping. I let them go to their new owners.